The Neapolitan Jacket
OUR NEAPOLITAN JACKETS
We have decided to go for the Signature Cut, whether we want to purchase a Ready-to-wear Jacket or a Suit.
The Shoulder is clearly one of the most distinguished feature that a Neapolitan Jacket has. In fact, most of the time, it will have no Padding inside.
Here at Pini Parma, we have chosen a « with small Roll » Shoulder (Con Sigaretta) to provide a good balance between a natural and formal appearance.
The Armhole, smaller and placed above the armpit, is combined with a larger Upper sleeve.
Our aim is to provide a sense of lightness and freedom during movements, mandatory features in our vision of a contemporary jacket.
The Cut of our Lapel is another main characteristic in our jackets.It is important to clearly define what a Lapel is. Commonly, we refer to it as the collar part, the lapel part and the Gorge which is the sewn line between the first two. See graphic below.
The Pini Parma Notch Lapel:
By taking a look at the 2D Graphic below, we can see how our lapel Line is curved, emphasised by a hand rolled technique that provides a more « generous » look, well appreciated by Italian men.
A Lapel width of 9,5 cm is, at Pini Parma, what we call « Well -proportioned ».
A traditional Neapolitan Style with a higher gorge parallel to the shoulder line. The angle between the gorge and the lapel measures 80°, contrary to the Neapolitan tradition of 90° instead. (See Graphic Below)
Our Peak Lapel
The Lapel Line remains curved.
A quite narrow angle is formed between the gorge and the lapel, supported by a little « bride » that avoids the lapel to unfold. It’s thanks to the Canvas, a signature of high quality assembly, that all the components stick together.
A lapel of 10,5 cm emphasizes « authority « to whomever wears it, highlighted by 6mm AMF points (American Machine and Foundry) on some of our models such as the Solaro shown in the image above.
Not to forget a handmade Milanese keyhole buttonhole.
Our Barchetta chest pocket is also one of the most popular Neapolitan style signatures.
In fact, this kind of pocket is not cut straight, instead it is gently angled upwards like the bow of a sailboat, in order to follow the volume of our chest and leave the pocket square the possibility to pop out more.
The 3 on 2 roll buttons jackets (1st nonworking button/ button hole is inserted into the lapel) are seen more and more on the Sartorial Blogsphere. It is a real Italian detail, often quite misunderstood by the majority of customers. For these reasons, we decided to choose 2 buttons jackets and 6x2 for the double-breasted ones.
However, the 1st button (the upper one) is place slightly higher than normal to underline the slim silhouette.
Regular 2 buttons Jacket with hand rolled lapel.
Sleeve buttons that are slightly overlapping one another (Kissing Buttons) with working button holes.
Two rounded « a pignata » pockets (patch Pockets) which contribute to underline the fact that the jacket is longer at the front than it is at the back. The quarters (the two flaps of the jacket that meet together below the waist button) are more open than the standard version.
The vent is 25 cm higher which allows us to put our hands in the trousers pockets more easily. The jacket will also appear more comfortable whenever we sit down or we simply move.
How to lighten a jacket as much as possible?
Our Jackets are unlined for providing more lightness. Only the front part of the jacket, where the wallet pockets are, is lined by extra fabric. All our pockets are reinforced by « half-moon » seams.
All these details bring life to a unique style rocognised all over the world : "Lo Stile Napoletano".
Discover our Jackets collection.
If you need advice or additional information contact us
We will be happy to give you our advice.