Broken Suit: the Art of mismatching a suit - Pini Parma

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Broken Suit: the Art of mismatching a suit

Broken Suit: the Art of mismatching a suit

In Italy the art of wearing a suit jacket with different pants, has a name :
“Abito Spezzato”.
This art is one of the secrets of elegance and requires a personal touch of creativity and audacity.

  

We will now give you some tips on how to match the various garments in your wardrobe, following some simple rules for a perfect "mismatching".

1 - We start from the basics: we can not match a winter jacket with summer trousers and vice versa. Choose two pieces that share similar fabric and textures. Example don’t wear a flannel jacket with s100 trousers or vice versa

2 - Play with the colors:
Solid + Solid
If you combine two solids, make sure that one of the colors stands out more to create a contrast in your outfit. Blue with grey or beige. Bordeaux with blue.

 

You can choose two different tones of the same color ( light grey with dark grey or beige with grey)

 

 

Solid + Pattern 
Brown herringbone jacket + Brown Trousers

and DON’T Mismatch blue with black please! or even worse brown with black. 

3 - Appropriate features and details : To be able to be used with different trousers, the jacket of a suit should ideally have:
- Neapolitan shoulder/ shirt shoulder;

-The patch pocket

 

- Unstructured construction

4 - The most common Mistake : mismatched a classic suit without soft shoulder and with welt pockets (with or without flap) in 130s wool blue or grey.

5 - Observe the etiquette : for a job interview, an important meeting or a ceremonies a classic blue suit is the most appropriate choice. In this case is better avoid the mismatched look.

   

6 - Mismatching but with "Sprezzatura" : wearing your personal look with absolute nonchalance, typical of the Italian style.

  

7 - Avoid black shoes when you mismatch ; brown shoes will be much better, you can also try dark blue shoes. 

8 - Try to wear loafers or sneakers with your mismatch , you will give a twist to your style.

  

 9 - Go for a casual fold pocket square to your suit jacket, this will help to show that its a jacket and not a suit.   

 10 - Don’t forget to open 2 of your sleeves button this will help to your casual look.

 

11 - Be sure that the suit jacket that you are missmatching is not too long, jacket are basically 1-1.5 cm shorter than a suit.

12 - Instead of wearing a classic shirt go for a denim shirt or a polo shirt with long sleeves.

 

13 - Coordinate the colors : if you have different colors on your jacket try to combine the colors with your shirt / polo shirt and trousers.

14 - During the winter season wear a turtleneck under your jacket this will give you a sophisticated look.

 

Now when you buy a suit think twice if the jacket could be worn as a casual jacket and if the pants could go with another jacket, so you will have multiple looks instead of only one look.

If you have any doubts about a mismatched look, just send us a picture via email or whatsapp and we will be glad to give you our opinion !

info@piniparma.com
whatsApp +32 491 98 87 99

Do not forget to share this guide with who you think might need it ;)

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